
By Ed Staskus
Oliver was the first one out of the Jeep Cherokee the day the family turned into the parking lot of Sleeping Bear Dunes. He had been doing nothing in the car for two hours, after playing car games with Emma for hours before that. They had played I Spy, Road Trip Bingo, and the License Plate Game until his sister decided to take a nap. Doing nothing was hard for Oliver to do because he never knew when to stop.
They had driven from Perry, where they lived in Ohio, through Cleveland, Toledo, and Detroit, past Bay City and Cadillac, and finally gotten to where they were going after dinnertime, which they had eaten in the car. Dinner had been pasties all the way around. They got them at a run-down diner called ‘Eats’ on the side of the road. They were D-shaped handheld meat pies loaded with beef, onions, potatoes, and root vegetables. The meat pies had originally been brought to Michigan by miners from Cornwall in the west of England, who carried them in snap tins to the mines for lunch.
Sleeping Bear Dunes was up the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive west of Glen Lake. It was managed by the National Park Service, but it wasn’t a National Park. It was a National Lakeshore. It stretched along 35 miles of Lake Michigan’s eastern coastline. The dunes rose hundreds of feet above the shoreline. Oliver meant to scale the Dune Climb and hike the shadeless miles on the Dune Trail to the lake.
“You’ll never make it,” he cautioned his sister, looking at the sand pile that was four hundred-some feet up to the crest.
“We’ll see about that, bub.”
Emma was two years older than her brother and didn’t take any guff from him.
Their parents made sure they were wearing hats and had a bottle of water. “Be back before it gets dark, no ifs ands or buts.” They strolled over to a picnic table to have the coffee and cherry shortbread cookies they had picked up at Joe’s Friendly Tavern in nearby Empire. They planned on walking the paved trail that steered clear of the dunes. They told their children to come back after their hike to where they were staying at the Dune Climb Inn.
As far as anybody knew Sleeping Bear Dunes was formed in one of two ways. One way might have been when Mother Bear and her two cubs fled into Lake Michigan when a fire broke out in their forest. Mother Bear swam across the lake and made it up a high neck of land. She waited for her cubs but they didn’t make it. They drowned before reaching the shore. Mother Bear lay down in sorrow and died. The Great Spirit covered her with a heap of beach sand. She became the Sleeping Bear Dunes. The Great Spirit transformed the cubs into North and South Manitou Islands.
The other way might have been during the Ice Age when glaciers carved out a basin that later became Lake Michigan. When the glaciers retreated from the continent 12,000 years ago they left behind moraines, steep bluffs, onto which wind and waves slowly but surely built sand dunes stretching to the sky.
Oliver liked the Mother Bear way. Emma liked the Ice Age way. They argued about it for a few minutes, unable to convince the other, and then set off on the Dune Climb. They ran at first, but slid backward with every stride they took forward. They stopped running and instead started walking. By the time they got to the top they were huffing and puffing.
“That was nuthin’,” Oliver said, throwing himself down on the sand and resting. Emma looked down on him and rolled her eyes.
“And you call yourself a he-man?”
“Give me a minute to catch my breath and I’ll get back to being a he-man.”
They set off on the Dune Trail towards the lake, which they couldn’t see. They wouldn’t see it until they got to the end of the trail. They went up and down rolling dunes. The sand was soft and shifted with every step. It was also bona fide hot.
“Good thing we wore our tennis shoes,” Emma said. “I don’t know if my bare feet could take it.”
“How far is it to the lake?”
“About a mile, probably more.”
“And then a mile back?”
“Probably more.”
When they got to Lake Michigan the view was massive. The water was a bright celestial blue, like lapis lazuli. Even though blue is the rarest color in nature it stretched out to the horizon many miles away. They thought about going down the steep bluff to the shore until they saw the three thousand dollar sign. “Warning! Avoid getting stuck at the bottom! Lake levels are high. The only way out is up. Rescues cost $3,000. Keep yourself and our rescuers out of danger!”
“What’s that all about?”
“The Glen Lake Fire Department put that there.” A young man had walked over with a lady friend. “It only takes a couple of minutes to run down to the shore but climbing back up can take two hours. Sometimes people can’t do it and have to be rescued. When that happens a half dozen firemen have to set up a rope system to pull the person up that bluff.”
“We could do it.”
“It’s getting dark soon. You might not be able to see your way. The firemen might not be able to find you. Your parents will be worried if you don’t get back before nightfall.”
“Oh, right.”
Oliver and Emma set off. The sun was setting behind them but it was still hot. They had downed all their water and didn’t have anymore. The more they walked the more tired they got. They took a rest break and then another rest break.
“Dad said to make sure we got back before it got dark. I don’t think that is going to happen.”
“Did you bring your flashlight?” Oliver asked.
“No, but I brought my jackknife.”
“How is that going to help?
“In case a sand shark attacks us?”
“We better stop resting.”
They started walking. Before long they were trudging. After that they slogged forward with heavy steps.
“We need somebody like Lawrence of Arabia and his camel to come and get us, like in the movie, when he rescued that Arab who got lost and was wandering around.”
“He was a Bedouin,” Emma said.
The family had streamed the movie at home a week earlier. Lawrence and the Bedouins were crossing the Nefud desert on their way to attack the Turkish town of Aqaba. They called the desert ’The Sun’s Anvil.’ It was scorching. One of the Bedouins fell asleep on his camel and fell off. By the time he came to his senses the camel had wandered off. The other Bedouins were not up to rescuing him.
“It is Allah’s will,” they say. “His time has come. It is written.”
“Nothing is written,” Lawrence says.
“Go then, but you will never make it to Aqaba.”
“I shall be at Aqaba. That is written.”
In end Lawrence saves the Bedouin and leads the successful attack on Aqaba.
Oliver and Emma looked in all directions but neither of them saw Lawrence of Arabia or any camels until in an instant they did.
“Look!” Emma exclaimed.
When Oliver looked he saw Lawrence on a camel riding towards them. He was wearing a red and white keffiyeh wrapped around his head and flowing white silk robes. He rode high on the wooden frame pack saddle.
“Hop on, kids,” Lawrence said.
“That thing stinks!”
The camel smelled like fermenting grass and stale urine, among other things.
“Don’t look a gift horse in the mouth.”
Lawrence signaled the camel, who knelt down. Oliver and Emma clamored aboard.
“Hang on tight,” Lawrence said.
The camel lifted its back legs and then its front legs. The way it did it made for a sudden back and forth motion. Oliver and Emma hung on tight. Lawrence turned away from the setting sun. He tapped the camel’s shoulders with his feet and said “Arrrrr.” The camel lurched forward. Lawrence got it up to a running pace by prodding it with his riding stick. They were back at the top of the Dune Climb in less than two minutes.
“Thank you so much Mr. Arabia,” Oliver said.
“You’re very welcome, but it’s Mr. Lawrence, Thomas Edward Lawrence.”
“Oops, sorry”
“Off you go.”
They could see the lights of the Dune Climb Inn in the distance on the far side of the parking lot. They started down the dune. Emma stopped to wave goodbye to Lawrence of Arabia and his camel, but they were hardly there anymore. They were more shimmer than real. They began to fade like a mirage and in a minute had completely disappeared.
Oliver and Emma ran down the dune, across the parking lot, and to the inn. They burst into their room where their mother immediately held up her hand like a stop light and stopped them.
Ed Staskus posts monthly on 147 Stanley Street http://www.147stanleystreet.com, Made in Cleveland http://www.clevelandohiodaybook.com, Down East http://www.redroadpei.com, and Lithuanian Journal http://www.lithuanianjournal.com. To get the site’s monthly feature in your in-box click on “Follow.” His books are available on Amazon and Apple Books.
“Ebb Tide”
Summer, 1989. North Rustico, a small town on the north coast of Prince Edward Island. Crooked money on the move gone missing. A double cross and muscle from Montreal. One RCMP constable working the back roads stands in the way.
A Crying of Lot 49 Publication








